Sunday, 1 December 2013


 I had never ever seen so many ships gathered in one place.  As we slowly steamed in we passed several more destroyers and a battleship, either the Rodney or the Nelson.  The coastal scenery was lush, green, jungle. There was no blackout here and it was a wonderful sight at night to see the coast and the ships lit up.

We had been cooped up in a troopship for six weeks and looked forward to stretching our legs.   Len Brown and I got shore leave until 10:30 p.m. at night.  We were paid four pounds in South African money, about $20 Canadian then. Durban was a very modern city, very untouched by the war and looked spick and span.  Large, glistening-white, high rise apartment buildings lined the sandy-beach waterfront, suggesting the good things in life. This "oasis" city was a far cry from the drab wartime colouring of the U.K. we had left behind us. We were longing to see more of the sights.  We had heard the lights were on and there were plenty of things to be had that were rationed in the U.K.  Sweets, fruit and ice cream were in plentiful supply.
The currency in South Africa was very similar to the English, dealing in shillings and pence. After filling our bellies with goodies, Len and I went to a picture show, but boy was it ever expensive; certainly more than in the UK.  
There were rickshaws everywhere, being pulled around the streets by huge Zulus, as shown.   
The  authorized rate was six pence, 12 cents or so, for one passenger to go up to one mile.  This easily covered most parts of the city that were of interest to the servicemen.  Of course they tried to charge more sometimes, but we soon learned to bargain.  On shipboard and in the folder we had been issued, we were advised of destinations that would fall within the sixpence fare.  Most rates were based on taking a rickshaw from the town centre or the Post Office to places like Albert Park, Marine Parade, Indian & Native Market.  Areas farther out went up to a shilling [about 25cents].   When one required a rickshaw the first question was always, "Marleeney?", meaning HOW MUCH?  The Zulu "driver" told us in his language: Threepence was "teekie" and sixpence was "sispens" or "zukwa".  One shilling was "usheleni" and for some weird reason two shillings was called "Scotchman". On arriving near a spot of interest one would call out, "Eeema!", which meant STOP! Taxis were available for a shilling up to a mile, but not always easy to get.  Many officers and their ladies took taxis, but the ranks stuck to the rickshaws. The rickshaw pullers were powerfully built men and could run like the wind.  They alldressed in colourful uniforms with little clusters of feathers with bracelets on their biceps, wrists, and ankles.  Many wore large fancy hats.  They blew whistles as they ran, warning anyone in their path that they were coming. Driving was on the left.
The modern buildings were very much of a North American structure.  I believe the highest was about 17 stories.  Most of the cars were American with just a sprinkling of English autos.  Before we went back to the ship that night we bought a large bag of apples and oranges to share with the lads who had not been given passes.
The next morning we were roused at 5 a.m. and with full kit left our ship at 10 a.m. and marched to a nearby train, which we boarded.  

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